In 1996, I travelled around Indonesia with my then-boyfriend. We’d been exploring Surabaya when we heard about an island off the coast called Madura that could be reached via ferry. It didn’t turn up in any of the tourist guides, which appealed to us, being adventurous types. We knew Madura wouldn’t be touristy, but expected there’d be some streets to explore and somewhere to sit down and have a cup of tea.
As soon as Madura came into sight, we realised our visit may not have been a great idea. We were expecting to see houses and buildings dot the shore, as well as the hawkers who’d typically crowd around piers in Indonesia with food and wares to sell. There was none of that. It was just a pier next to a tiny village.
After disembarking, we set off walking and within 100 metres ran out of houses, surrounded only by rice paddies and farmland. There was nothing to do and nowhere to go, and not even a tree to seek shade under.
Feeling a little defeated, we sat down at a bench by the side of the road, the sun beating down on us. Before long a young woman in a kebaya and sarong came past. Clearly noticing how out of place we looked, she asked in English if she could help us. We asked her when the next ferry back to Surabaya was coming and she answered that it wasn’t for several hours.
She said it was far too hot for us to wait outside all that time – and invited us to her family home.
She took us in, sat us down and then returned with a tray of gloriously refreshing cold drinks. We noticed she wasn’t partaking and when we asked why, she explained it was Ramadan and she’s not supposed to be eating or drinking until sunset. We felt uncomfortable drinking when she couldn’t, but she assured us it was OK.
She then invited her two brothers, both of whom were studying engineering, to come and speak with us. For the following hours we all sat around the table having a lovely conversation about the world and the things they wanted to do in life. When we finished our first drinks, she brought out more, and kept entertaining us until it was time to bring us back to the pier for the return ferry.
For the rest of my life, her wonderful hospitality has been my model of the Muslim faith. I am grateful to her for giving me that wonderful view of human nature, and more optimism about people in general. It was a great gift, one that has stuck with me throughout my life.